Thanks for that chart Steven,
It's still early and without sunlight, my shop is dark., so I'm waiting for
the sun to come up. I haven't swapped out the TCI units yet. I put the newer
motor on the old bike frame. When my old motor went bad, it didn't die, it just
started making a bad noise that indicated an overhaul. I found a parts bike
nearby and decided to go with a swap rather than an overhaul. That being said,
I'm ASSUMING my old TCI unit is okay as the bike never actually quit running. I
don't know much about the history of the parts bike. The engine turned over by
hand and seemed to have good compression. All I had to do was put the
rotor/stator from my old engine on it . I didn't get the timing set up right on
it and bent a valve when I tried to start it the first time. Took it to a
mechanic and he pulled a good valve from my old head and relashed and
re-assembled the whole works. He said everything looked good. He was the last
one to put the side case back on so I'm trusting he didn't pinch any wires. I
won't rule it out, but it's going to be the last thing I check as I don't want
to drain the oil, AGAIN...
Thanks again for the fault-finding doohicky. And thanks again for responding
to my posts. I don't know if it's how I word my questions, but it seems like I
rarely get responses to my questions...
Barry (a very early riser, even on the friggin' weekend!)
royscorrigan wrote:
> The wires from the rotor/stator assembly come from the left side of the
> engine case. They offtimes get pinched, stretched, or broken. This
> happened to my bike, and basically caused the TCI to go to hell as well.
> Here's the fault-finding diagrams...:
> http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_fault_finding.html
> If it's not this, it may well be the TCI that's giving you fits. I believe
> you said you had two TCIs-one from the old engine, one from the newer. Have
> you tried with both, yet? (Stupid question, I'm sure-just don't want to
> overlook the obvious.)
> Steven (who can't sleep)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx]On
> Behalf Of Barry Carpenter
> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 11:33 PM
> To: virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: power to the coil
>
> I did a visual check of the wires and cleaned them up at the connector. I
> got a
> bit of voltage on some of the contacts, but without knowing what the
> readings
> are supposed to be, I couldn't tell if this was an accurate test or not.
> Tomorrow I may remove the outer wire casing. I'm trying to avoid removing
> the
> right side of the case as I don't want to have to drain the oil. But if I
> have
> to I will.
> I know it's something simple, but finding it is going to be a bear!
>
> Thanks again,
> Barry
>
> royscorrigan wrote:
>
> > Did you check for a broken wire or short near the case itself? I'm still
> > thinkin' it might be a stator/rotor problem (or the wiring associated with
> > same) in the 'new' engine. You've got a good TCI to back up the testing,
> at
> > least by your account of the one from the former engine.
> > Steven
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx]On
> > Behalf Of Barry Carpenter
> > Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 7:28 PM
> > To: virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: power to the coil
> >
> > I'm getting power to the coils. The red wire on each coil shows voltage
> when
> > I
> > turn on the key. What would be the next troubleshooting step?
> >
> > royscorrigan wrote:
> >
> > > Barry, the rotor in the left ('driver side') half of the engine case
> > > supplies power to the recifire. In my '82 750, the rectifier is located
> > on
> > > the back of the toolbox, which is under the left airpod. Sometimes
> wiring
> > > gets pinched between the two. Check the wiring coming from the upper
> left
> > > rear of the engine case. You'll have to trace it, as I'm not sure where
> > > your components are...but if there's a short or broken whire (it
> happens),
> > > then there's no power juicing the coils.
> > > Steven
> >
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