I did a visual check of the wires and cleaned them up at the connector. I got a
bit of voltage on some of the contacts, but without knowing what the readings
are supposed to be, I couldn't tell if this was an accurate test or not.
Tomorrow I may remove the outer wire casing. I'm trying to avoid removing the
right side of the case as I don't want to have to drain the oil. But if I have
to I will.
I know it's something simple, but finding it is going to be a bear!
Thanks again,
Barry
royscorrigan wrote:
> Did you check for a broken wire or short near the case itself? I'm still
> thinkin' it might be a stator/rotor problem (or the wiring associated with
> same) in the 'new' engine. You've got a good TCI to back up the testing, at
> least by your account of the one from the former engine.
> Steven
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx]On
> Behalf Of Barry Carpenter
> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2003 7:28 PM
> To: virago@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: power to the coil
>
> I'm getting power to the coils. The red wire on each coil shows voltage when
> I
> turn on the key. What would be the next troubleshooting step?
>
> royscorrigan wrote:
>
> > Barry, the rotor in the left ('driver side') half of the engine case
> > supplies power to the recifire. In my '82 750, the rectifier is located
> on
> > the back of the toolbox, which is under the left airpod. Sometimes wiring
> > gets pinched between the two. Check the wiring coming from the upper left
> > rear of the engine case. You'll have to trace it, as I'm not sure where
> > your components are...but if there's a short or broken whire (it happens),
> > then there's no power juicing the coils.
> > Steven
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